About Zardozi
It is an elaborate Persian act which gained popularity in India during the epoch of the great Mughals. It is a precise needle work by using metal bound threads to create floral and geometrical patterns on the rich fabrics such as silk, velvet and brocade. Zardozi embroidery is done by a large variety of gold and silver wires, sprangles and the motifs are created with needle by using thread over thread. This art sometimes incorporates the precious and semi-precious stones, beads. Zardozi was used as a large scale to decorate the Mughal royal palaces, royal attires and animal trappings.
History of Zardozi
The word Zardozi is based on the synthesis of 2 Persian words, Zar and Dozi. While Zar signifies gold, Dozi refers to serving. Thus, the very name suggests the work on rich fabrics by the use of gold threads with the use of needles. During the Middle Ages in Indian history, zari and zardozi became very popular as it was the regal choice. While Zari work is done by silver and metal thread Zardozi. Embroidery was done by either golden or silver threads.
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The revered Zardozi art, which emanated from Iran and came to India, was created in the 12th century during the sultanate era, and this creative art was patronized by the then rulers. Later during the Mughal rule, especially during the emperor Akhbar’s ape it became a fashion of affluent and count by classes. In earlier times, mainly men worked in the workshops as the artisans were mainly Muslims and the ladies were working at home as the items of their daily usage. Zardozi motifs are timeless designs that are painstakingly crafted with needles.
Zardozi art became prevalent during the Mughal rule and became in vogue up to the era of the Nawabs, but during the heyday of the English, it declined due to the loss of the royal patronage and industrialization. Later, post-independence of India, it got a resurgence.
How Zardozi is made?
Form making zardozi patterns you need to have a frame called ‘adda’ which is made of wood and can vary in size according to the requirements. You also need needle, elaborate fabrics, metal coils and a tracing paper. First of all, on a butter paper the desired pattern is sketched with the use of panels and holes are made on the outlines with needle, Later the design is traced on the peace of fabric. Kerosene oil is mixed with the coloured solution and with the help of piece of cloth this mixture is carefully stabbed on the butter paper. Thus, the ink and design is transferred to the fabric. Now the piece of fabric is stretched over Adda so that tit can tightly hold and the artisans sit around it. Now that it can tightly hold and the artisans sit around it. Now the deft handed artisans start playing with the needle and metal wires to make the desired pattern. The work can take month and months depending on the intricacy of the work.
Zardozi Designs
Zardozi is mainly a family tradition and the artesian learn about the designs and the complexity of work from their forefathers. The popular motifs are flowers, leaves, elephants, Ganesha, Peacocks and other birds, In the modern terms the artisans are switched to the modern themes as demand of the art lovers such as Jesus with the lamb, the Last Supper etc.
Famous Zardozi Cities in India.
Zardoza, Zari and chicken work were favoured by the royals. This art once practiced throughout India. From Kolkata, to Mumbai Major Zardozi cities in India are Delhi, Agra, Lucknow, Hyderabad, Bhopal and Farrukhabad.
There are some notable Zardozi mastercraftmen Such as Shamshuddin popularly called “Shams” who recently passed away. He received Padmshree award for his masterpices. He is no more but his memescies are still there in the form of his masterpieces in Agra Sanskriti Gems.